AHA and PHA: what is the difference between these fruit acids?

When you start looking into exfoliation, you quickly come across two abbreviations: AHA and PHA. They sound technical, but the idea behind them is simple. In this guide, we calmly explain what these fruit acids are, what the difference is, and which one suits your skin.

What are AHA and PHA?

Both are chemical exfoliants — a modern, mild way to loosen dead skin cells without scrubbing. Instead of grains, they use acids that work gently.

• AHA (alpha-hydroxy acids) — the best known are lactic acid and glycolic acid. They work at the surface and help the skin look smoother and fresher.
• PHA (poly-hydroxy acids) — such as gluconolactone. This is a newer generation with larger molecules, which makes it even milder and gentler.

What is the difference between AHA and PHA?

The main difference lies in the molecule size:

• AHA has smaller molecules and therefore works a little more actively on the skin. Lovely for a dull or uneven complexion that could use a touch of extra freshness.
• PHA has larger molecules that don't reach as deep, which makes it extra mild. Just right for sensitive skin or if you are new to exfoliation.

Many modern products combine the two, so you get the mild action of PHA with just a little more freshness from AHA. Our LUUV exfoliating toner with AHA + PHA is a lovely example of this — gentle enough for daily use, even for sensitive skin.

Which skin is it suited to?

• Dull or uneven complexion — AHA gives the skin a fresh, even look.
• Sensitive skin — PHA is the gentlest choice, lovely if AHA irritates your skin too much.
• New to exfoliation? — start gently, for example a few times a week, and build up.

How do you use fruit acids in your routine?

The order is simple:

• Cleanse — start with clean skin.
• Exfoliants (AHA/PHA) — apply with a cotton pad, for example with an exfoliating toner. Avoid the eye area.
• Serum — a hydrating serum on slightly damp skin.
• Care — finish with a day cream.

Important: always use a sunscreen during the day when you work with fruit acids — your skin is a little more sensitive to the sun then. And don't overdo it: a few times a week is often enough.

In short

AHA and PHA are both mild fruit acids that gently exfoliate the skin. AHA works a little more actively and is lovely for a dull complexion; PHA is the gentlest choice, ideal for sensitive skin. A combination gives you the best of both. Build up gently and don't forget your sunscreen.

Discover our exfoliating care with AHA and PHA — carefully selected, natural European brands.